
On Friday I caught a bus from Melbourne to Adelaide, which is about 11 hours. This wasn’t the original plan – I had wanted to take the Overland train, which isn’t that much more expensive and is a little bit more comfortable. But for the lack of comfort enough to sleep on a bus, I like the provision of time and vibrations in order to just sit and think about things. There’s something hugely comforting about being in transit, especially when one can sense the distance being covered (i.e. unlike on planes, when whole countries can pass beneath unnoticed) and as I write this on the straight red road between Coober Pedy and Alice Springs I note that I have indeed covered quite a distance already.
I overheard the bus driver say that there are supposed to be meteor showers all month. The swag was a good idea then, with its fine-mesh inner layer. More updates on that soon.
What was not a good idea was the quarantine laws between states prohibiting the cargo of fresh fruit and vegetables, forcing me to rely on the roadhouses for meals at specified bus stops along the way. Being coeliac, the only savoury thing I can buy from these places is potato chips, which really isn’t fair. No nuts or salad or fruit… How are truckies expected to stay healthy?
Adelaide. Mountains of thanks to Walter and Mélody for having me and feeding me my first real food in 14 hours. I had such a lovely time with you both! Our morning walk along the beach missed the rain by a few minutes; the ocean looked like mercury against the clouds; and I made acquaintance with a ghastly ‘silent stranger’ that was commissioned by an artist ‘to keep people company.’
Another 11 hour bus ride to Coober Pedy, the opal mining town, which I’ve been wanting to go to ever since my housemate James told me about the dug-out houses a month ago. Instead of being built upon the ground like regular houses, the homes in Coober Pedy are literally dug out of the landscape, in the side of hills and down into the earth itself, to provide insulation from the heat (apparently it gets hot in summer). So I decided to stay in a dug-out hostel, not just for the novelty of it but also for the fact that I would arrive at 5 in the morning after an 11-hour bus ride, and boy am I grateful to my past self for that decision. The rain cleared up minutes before the bus arrived and I trundled through the dark wet streets with my pack and swag until I reached the hostel and was shown to my room. Again, glorious, prostrate sleep.
Coober Pedy- spot the space ship and 11 mentions of the word ‘opal’. They filmed Priscilla Queen of the Desert here, which I ended the day with. TOP MOVIE.


